[Bike]
The Bike Touring Pages of
Chris X. Edwards

Journals - 14 April 1999

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Tag 4 (Bad Tolz, DE; 176 km; 9:07; odometer = 672.3) -- I slept pretty well in the table room and got up nice and early. After an obviously easy take down, I was away a bit after 7:00. It wasn't raining or even too cloudy, but I felt COLD. I wore rain pants and jacket just for cold's sake. It turns out that I wore the jacket almost the entire day (exceptions being some climbing) The road I was on paralleled the autobahn! In some places, it was quite busy. In others, it was totally empty -- never just normal. I noticed that on the other side of the river was a bike path. It was gravel -- I'd wished I'd stayed on the quiet secondary road. I took one rest break all morning. I rode pretty much straight through. At about 11:00, I got to Innsbruck. That was a circus. The bike lanes run all over the place causing me much confusion. I rode around a bit just to see the place. On my way out of town, I spotted an Imbiss wagon. Cool. I ordered a cheeseburger. No CBs. Hmm ... it's on the menu. OK. Fine. I'll have the "best thing." The guy then made me a thing called a "Bosna," which was a thin hot dog in a bun that was about 2 feet long -- no kidding! Amazingly, I thought it was pretty good. Onward. After a bit more confusion and silliness with finding the bike path, I was on it again. I drafted some guy for quite a ways. Then later, back on the road, I drafted a sawdust tractor for a really long way. That was good and bad. Oops. Order's wrong. Tractor draft, then bike path, then draft cyclist to Jenbach. This was the town I was hoping to leave the Inn River Valley and escape to Germany. I felt pretty good on the climb. It was a pretty nice climb, like a few climbs from Ruswil to Staublig. Once at the top, I was at a very nice Alpine Lake where lots of people come for vacation when it's warmer. I was getting hungry again and looking for a store. I found a combo deli/cafe. I tried the same trick, "What's good today?" She made me a sandwich for only 12 money units that was really good. That's less than 1 US $, I think! I felt better and continued on. The climb was definitely a climb, but the descent stretched out over a long way (40 km of very gradual slope). I made it to the ??? border checkpoint -- all closed up -- this is the E.U.! Hmm. There was a sign at the border the Austrian direction -- not German. Oddly, there was nothing but nature on the German side -- no towns, no houses, nothing. Hmm. I was cranking to lose altitude and hoping I'd be able to catch a bank open. The traffic on the road I was on picked up dramatically at some point. That was annoying, especially since the bike paths weren't paved and never lasted for more than a km or 2. I should have (hindsight!) taken the road that eventually paralleled mine, but I took that annoying one all the way to Bad Tolz. I searched for a bank here -- none, none, none -- a town without a bank!! Finally, I found one and my credit card gave me some local cash. Whew! OK, part 2 -- camping. What? No campsites? Geez ... what a place! I was riding aimlessly when I talked to another cyclist who was carrying a better map (that was lucky since he was in a racing get up). He found a campsite on the map and pointed me in the right direction. So some kms later, I found it. The showers took a special coin and didn't seem worth it to me, but it did the job. I set up camp and walked down the road to the cafe/restaurant. Closed -- it's Wednesday! Of course, it's closed. Duh! OK. I walked back. After the last of my Swiss food (except my kg of chocolate, of course). Now, I'm in the bag and ready to sleep good! By the way, real Germans are MUCH easier to understand than Austrians or Swiss. One woman even complimented my good German (for no reason -- go figure).
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Chris X. Edwards ~ September 2000